Posted Sunday July 25 2010

2010 Muir Valley Trail Day

Muir Valley Trail Day - Saturday, September 25, 2010.

Posted Thursday June 3 2010

Self Rescue Training

Self Rescue Training Saturday, June 5 at 10 AM at the BruiseBrothers Wall. Bring your climbing gear. No charge. All are welcome.

Posted Sunday September 20 2009

2009 Trail Day!

We hope to see you Saturday, September 26th for the Sixth Annual Muir Valley Trail day. We are meeting in the parking lot at about 8:30 AM. There will be food, door prizes, and a nice event tee shirt for all who participate.


The Friends of Muir Valley organization and the owners of M.V., Rick and Liz Weber, very much appreciate your helping us with the many projects in the Valley. There are trails to build, rock climbing routes to maintain, and a lot of maintenance to existing trails. Much remains to do to clean up after last winter's ice storm. There will be a nice evening meal about 6 pm after the days work.

We hope you can join us!!

Posted Wednesday April 8 2009

Muir Valley Stewardship Program

If you are accepted into this program, you will be allowed to drive down into Muir Valley and along the emergency road running the length of the Valley. Of course, there is a catch. Read on, if interested.

Last year, close to 12,000 visitor days were recorded at Muir Valley. Many of these climbers were new to the sport and arrived with inadequate gear and/or training. Over the last five years, we’ve seen too many scary close calls involving new climbers. We cannot continue to count on guardian angels to look after these folks.

To address this concern and to help with several of Muir Valley’s more pressing needs, we have launched our Stewardship volunteer program. We are asking experienced climbers to consider joining this program, wherein they will be asked to volunteer a few hours each year as a Steward visiting the climbing walls within the Valley. Responsibilities may include:

1. Keeping an eye out for accidents or impending accidents. If you see an “accident just waiting to happen”, provide needed advice or directions for corrective action. Report any accident immediately and administer first aid within the limits of your qualifications.
2. Gumby patrol. Look for inexperienced climbers. Check their gear and ask questions to ascertain their skill levels and adequacy of equipment. Give pointers and instruction where needed.
3. Ask visitors if they have filled out waivers. If not, provide them with one to fill out and submit on the spot.
4. Address inappropriate behavior.
5. Check out bolted hardware. Identify problems. Repair as needed.
6. Answer questions that climbers have about climbing areas and routes within the valley. When an area becomes overcrowded, suggest alternatives.

What volunteers will receive in return is a “Muir Valley Steward” tee shirt and the privilege of driving down to the valley floor and parking there. Show up with Steward tee-shirt and volunteer one hour and you earn a trip in your vehicle to and from the Valley floor. (Yes, friends can accompany you.) Only those with four wheel-drive vehicles will be permitted to drive into the Valley.

If you are interested in volunteering for this program, you can contact Rick Weber via email (richardhweber@gmail.com) to sign up. There will be about two hours of “training” required.

Most importantly, we are not looking for "enforcers" or "sheriffs", but rather good will ambassadors.

Posted Friday January 2 2009

Muir Valley News and Events for 2009

Mark your calendars:

• If the past five years is any indication, Memorial Day Weekend (May 23, 24, 25) will see the largest weekend attendance of the year. In 2008, there were 92 cars on Saturday. In 2009, to avoid chaos, we will be limiting this number to 80. So, come early or you could find the Valley closed.

We also need volunteers Memorial Day weekend to help with orientation for newbies. Contact Rick via email: richardhweber at gmail dot com

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• Megan Sturdy's Climbing Comp to raise funds for cancer research will be held on June 6. Details will be posted soon at: http://www.freewebs.com/climbingforcancerresearch/

She will be needing volunteers to help. Contact her at msturd2@gmail.com

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• The Sixth Annual Muir Valley Trail Day will be held on Saturday, September 26. This year's event promises to continue in its tradition as one of the largest attended Access Fund Adopt-a-Crag event in the U.S. - certainly the largest in the RRG area. Stay tuned for more details. Surprises in store!

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All guides and guide services wishing to do professional guiding in Muir Valley must contact Rick Weber as soon as possible to make sure you are in compliance with our rules and guidelines and have sufficient guiding insurance.

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The Muir Valley Emergency/Maintenance Road, that enters the Valley from KY 715 in Rogers, has been completely rebuilt and is now passable for those having Vehicle Permits only. Anyone needing a permit for persons with physical limitations should contact Rick Weber. MV Route Developers with 4-wheel drive vehicles are also eligible for permits on a case-by-case basis.

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Jim Taylor will be conducting AMGA Single Pitch Instructor training and certifications again this year. Anyone interested in becoming an SPI guide, can contact Jim at Appalachianclimbingschool.com

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The Red River Gorge Mountain Rescue Team (now in its 48th year) will be conducting technical rope rescue training (as per NFPA 1670). Levels 1 through 4. Contact Rick Weber for details if you would like to have this training (at no charge!) and participate in SAR operations in the RRG Geological Area and Clifty Wilderness.

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A Glue-in bolting seminar will be conducted in early spring. Fixe and Titt bolt installation techniques will be covered. Stay tuned here for date, time, and details.

Posted Friday January 2 2009

Kentucky Hwy 715 Project through Muir Valley

A big Thank You to all of the climbers who took an interest in the potential impact on Muir Valley of some of the alternatives under consideration by the Kentucky Transportation Cabinet.

Recently, I spoke again to David Martin, the KTC Project Manager. The final decision is awaiting the report from their consultants, which he is expecting this month. He received well over a hundred contacts, including letters, emails, faxes and phone calls, from people concerned about the potential impact on Muir of some of the alternatives under consideration.

He was so impressed with the number of people expressing concern and the quality of their communication that he, his manager, and another executive from KTC made a trip to tour Muir Valley to see what it was all about.

Of course, nothing can be finalized until they receive the report from their consultants, but he is leaning toward recommending Alternative H (Spot Improvements to KY HW 715).

One of the proposed spots for improvements starts at the point where our emergency road meets HW 715, so it might result in loss of some Muir Valley land in that area. That could present a challenge in redoing the emergency road, which is already very steep and narrow. But that is nothing, compared to the challenge of having the highway re-routed through the heart of Muir Valley, which would have been the result of some of the other alternatives under consideration.

Again, Rick and I want to express our appreciation to all of you who took the time to take an interest in this issue and to make your views known. You folks are the greatest!

Liz and Rick

Posted Wednesday October 8 2008

Muir Valley during Rocktoberfest 2008

Last year during Rocktoberfest weekend, Muir Valley saw record numbers of climbers. This year, due to the closing of many of the PMRP climbs on Saturday for the Rocktoberfest comps, Muir may be swamped with visitors.

We will try to accommodate as many climbers as possible. But, when the parking lot is full, it's full. If you arrive to find the lot closed, please try another climbing area and don't park all over neighbors' property as they promise to have cars towed this year.

Please try to arrive early and spread out throughout the Valley. Try to avoid the usually crowded walls and instead check out some of often-overlooked gems at Persepolis, Bibliothek, Coyote Cliff, and the Midnight Surf/Boneyard areas.

Anyone coming in groups larger than six should PM me before this weekend for special instructions.

Posted Wednesday October 8 2008

Rock Climbing Guiding and Instruction in Muir Valley

If you wish to be guided and/or receive professional rock climbing instruction in Muir Valley, Please contact Jim Taylor, Josh Thurston, Karsten Delap, Craig Luebben, Ron Funderburke, Adam Fox, or Adam Beck.

For children with physical limitations or those who cannot afford professional guiding fees, such as those in pediatric oncology “Icancervive” programs and “Big Brothers Big Sisters of the Bluegrass”, free guiding and instruction in rock climbing is available on a limited basis in Muir Valley by Rick Weber. Rick is an AMGA-certified Single Pitch Instructor who can be contacted at rweber(at)accenttech.com

Jim Taylor: http://www.appalachianclimbingschool.com
Josh Thurston: http://www.hoosierheights.com
Karsten Delap: http://www.foxmountainguides.com
Craig Luebben: http://www.craigluebben.com
Ron Funderburke:
http://www.foxmountainguides.com
Adam Fox: http://www.foxmountainguides.com
Adam Beck: http://www.becknology.com

Posted Sunday March 23 2008

Muir Emergency Road Temporarily Closed

A reminder that the lower road along the floor of Muir Valley is ONLY for emergency and maintenance use (including approved route development). Vehicles displaying a valid 2008 MV Vehicle Permit may use this road, but only after repairs are made to it during the next few weeks. Permit holders will be notified when the road is in condition to be used again.

Thanks.

Posted Tuesday February 19 2008

Flood Damage

The skies opened up for a few minutes and dumped more rain into Wolfe County than any of the old timers can remember. This created a raging flood down through Muir Valley that washed away two bridges and badly damaged two others. The latest bridge, which had only been finished for two weeks, located at the Rebel Camp/Joe Ponder creek crossing was designed for a flood stage 36 inches above normal. Unfortunately, the recent flood rose to 54 inches above normal and uprooted this bridge from its posts and sent it downstream to the Kentucky River.

The lesson learned here is that wood bridges are not a good choice for this type of terrain. Starting in the spring, we will be building low water bridges with concrete and small culvert pipes. One of these types of bridges can be seen at the entrance to the Natural Bridges State Park campsite entrance near Mill Creek Lake on KY 11. The advantages to this type of "bridge" are that 1) it can't wash away. 2) it allows for walking across with dry feet 98% of the time. 3) when the water flow is too great for the culverts to handle, it simply flows over the top of the concrete, during which time hikers step between stepping stones embedded in the concrete. More details to follow.

Rick

Posted Monday February 4 2008

Developer News

In late November, Kenny Barker finished a steep 5.13a line, "Name Dropper", in the Sanctuary and helped relocate a bolt on "Triple Sec."

Kipp Trummel installed anchors and completely bolted a line just to the left of hoosierheights.com and declared it an open project. Kipp says, "Anyone can jump on it and get that FA. It is for slab masters. probably mid 13..no harder. Ask ray for beta.....I belayed him as he TR flailed on it. After seeing him work it, I decided it would be better for me to take up knitting. I have no business on it." Anyone interested in doing the FA, please contact Rick or Kipp for details.

Also, Eric Anderson completely bolted a long very steep climb (probably in the 13's) in a new area called "Shawnee Shelter" and has declared this open to any one wishing to try the FA.

Jeff Columbo and Mark Ryan are developing new routes on the south end of the Boneyard Wall.

Justin Riddell is developing a new sport route at the Inner Sanctum. He thinks this line will be in the elevens.

Posted Wednesday January 9 2008

Dog Ban

Effective immediately, dogs are no longer permitted in Muir Valley with a few special exceptions. Certain people who have contributed significant time, effort, and expertise in support of Muir Valley will be given a written exemption to this rule.

Posted Wednesday January 9 2008

Volunteers needed to document routes

We need help from climbers to fill in blanks in our database of hardware used on certain Muir Valley climbs. The work consists of recording this info when climbing an MV route: type and size of bolts, type of hangers, type of top anchor and inventory of its components, the distance in inches between the top anchor bolts, and the distance in feet between the ground and the first and second bolts, and the total length of the route in feet.

An example of what a typical inventory would include: 8 bolted Fixe hanger brackets with grade 5 Dynabolt Gold bolts. Top anchor - 2 Fixe ring anchors, 2 Dynabolt Gold Grade 5 bolts, 2 1/2-in. quicklinks on each ring. Distance between top anchor bolts - 11 inches. Distance between ground and first and second bolts - 14 feet and 19 feet respectively. Length of route - 73 feet.

Those interested in helping can contact Rick Weber at rweber@accenttech.com . He will provide more details and a tape measure to use.

Posted Tuesday January 8 2008

Emergency Smoking Ban Lifted

Thanks to a wetter-than-usual fall, the smoking ban is no longer in effect.

Posted Tuesday September 4 2007

New climbing area within Muir Valley to open September 1.

Calvin Hollow will be open to climbing on September 1. The approach trail is located about 100 yards south (downstream) of the Hideout approach trail. There will be a sign posted along the main road for this new area.

It is important to note that new route development is continuing in this area. There are nine new open routes and about 12 projects under way. Closed projects are marked with red ribbon and/or pink project tags. As with all rock climbing projects, please respect these project lines and do not climb them.

Open routes include these:

Animal Crackers Wall - The first slabby wall you come to on the new approach trail.
(left to right)
“Casey” - 5.8 Slab, 75 feet
“Harvey” - 5.7 Slab, 48 feet
“Hobbes” - 5.7 Slab, 32 feet (second pitch above Harvey)
“Rikki Tikki Tavi” - 5.8 Slab, 44 feet
"Sam" - about 5.10b, 45 feet
“Panda Bear” - 5.8 Slab, 45 feet

(Please note that "Animal Crackers" is a tall slab wall. The routes have been thoroughly wire-brushed, but for a while, they will be a bit sandy. Just the nature of a slab.)

de Bibliothek Wall - 300 yards up the trail from "Animal Crackers" Wall
(left to right)


"The Unbearable Lightness of Being” – 5.12a, 70 feet
“The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber” – 5.10b, 45 feet
“100 Years of Solitude” – 5.11b, 55 feet“

All routes will be marked with a metal I.D. disk near the starts at eye level.

Posted Thursday August 23 2007

Training Anchors

A top anchor system with two Fixe ring anchors has been installed on the Bruise Brothers Wall, about 10 feet left of "Send Me On My Way." This top anchor is located about 8 feet off the ground. The purpose is to provide a place for climbers to learn how to clean a top anchor system at a safe height where an instructor can conveniently talk to the trainee and clearly view what the trainee is doing.